Click on the record sheet to see the diary for that day.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 1
Sat 29 June
0814 train from Leeds to Penzance was late (as expected) but only by 30 mins.
Arr 1640. Not allowed to lock the bike up in the guards van, so was worried
all the way down that it would be nicked. Walked through Penzance as main street
closed for a fair. Checking in at Penzance YH
- Aussie warden, and group of 7 Aussies (average age about 60) just off the
plane from Oz - planning to cycle to JoG at 80km/day with full camping gear.
Good luck to them!
At 1800 this evening cycled out to Lands
End and back to Penzance. Thick sea fog & a bit damp. Needed to put
lights on. When I was last there (1974) there was nothing at Land's End except
a signpost. Now there is a whole fake village, apparently built by Peter de
Savary 12 yrs ago to capture 'the Lands End Experience'. There's progress. There's
a wall covered in plaques with promises of End-to-Enders (I will swim in the
sea every day. I will donate 100 pints of blood. I will help to build a better
world...)
Evening meal in pub in Newlyn, where the sea was level and mean. Pub music was
4 Tops & Carpenters, washed down by pint of Cornish Knocker
Ale (£2). Seems the Knockers were goblins that lived down the tin mines
& guided the miners to the rich seams by knocking on the walls.
Lots of Cornish flags around (white cross on black). Makes a change from the
profusion of St George flags in the rest of England right now (due to the World
Cup).
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 2
Sun 30 June
Up 0700 for breakfast at 0800. Sent email at 0900. Away at 1000. Shopping at Tescos in Penzance finished by 1100. Need to be quicker off in future.
Marazion with St Michael's Mount was beautiful. Lunch outside pub in Perranwell Station, where heard but didn't see the World Cup final (Brazil 2, Germany 0). Roads very quiet because everyone watching the game.
Ferry at Trelissick, then after a few wrong turnings ended up in Veryan Bay south of St Michael Caerhays, by mistake. Very picturesque, but added another hill to an already very hilly day. Through Mevagissey - very quaint, and for some reason a Scottish pipe band was playing on the harbour! Took Sustrans path from Mevagissey to Pentewan, but it was very steep & poorly surfaced, so had to get off & push for first time. More or less avoided St Austell by southern by-pass. Too late to visit the Eden Project, so pressed on through Par to Golant. Too early for pub meal at Tywardreath, and too late for meal at hostel, so went on to Golant village for nice meal at the pub there by the River Fowey. 2 cyclists there admiring my new bike, especially the colour!
Highlight of the day at the hostel about 2130, when the warden (they call them managers now) put out scrap food on the lawn in front of the dining room, and after a few minutes 3 badgers came out of the bushes. Their eyesight is so poor that, even though it was still light, they were obviously finding the food by smell.
Generally good weather today
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 3
Mon 1 July
Damp start, but improved through the day. Detoured a little from CTC route to visit Polperro, which was just as charming & pretty as I had been told.
One ferry yesterday, and 2 today at Fowey and Torpoint. Lunch at 'Coffee Pot' in Torpoint where a sign said 'all our staff are menopausal, so please treat them nicely'. The A road to Torpoint was not pleasant - cars passing too closely. Plymouth - Tavistock A386 road was pretty awful despite the odd cycle facilities. I was going faster than the traffic queue out of the city, at 1530. Views of and from Dartmoor quite impressive. Some showers but quick to pass, and strong wind was a help getting over Dartmoor. Touched 63km/h going down some steep hills! What a desperate place is Dartmoor prison. Sheep on the moor even dimmer than their Scottish cousins - had to shout at some to get them to move off.
Stayed in Sparrowhawk Backpackers (vegetarian) hostel in Moretonhampstead, because Steps Bridge and 2 other nearby YHA hostels were all fully booked by school parties. I think YH's should always keep a handful of beds free for genuine travellers (Similarly I abhor the conversion of established hotels into 'coach parties only' hotels, especially in remote areas). Sparrowhawk is a new venture run by Alison & Darran, a very friendly eco-conscious young couple with 3 kids. I was the only guest in a room for 10 in a converted barn. Had a chance to practice my Spanish on 2 guests from Vittoria (Basque country). Evening meal in one of several pubs in the town.
Yesterday I passed the Bodilly function rooms, and today went to Looe and Crapstone! (honest)
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 4
Tue 2 July
Away from backpackers 0930 with just a cup of tea. Breakfast just before Exeter, but several unexpectedly stiff hills on way there. Also quite a few steep hills between Exeter & Wellington. Eventually got fed up with them & braved the busier but better graded A38. Nearly ran over 2 foxes - very dark brown, not light reddish brown like the urban foxes of Leeds. Big long descent into Taunton - a very pleasant town, with lots of cycles and facilities for them. Somehow ended up on the busy by-pass, then small roads via Monkton to Bridgwater. In contrast to Taunton, Bridgwater is rather a dump. Started raining there so sheltered in 300 yr old pub on A39, for pint of orange juice and packet of crisps (to become a regular afternoon snack). But rain persisted and continued incessantly to Cheddar and through the night till about 0900 next morning. Lots of broken signposts and lack of features in the Somerset Levels made route finding difficult. Finally got to Cheddar YH thoroughly soaked, but very efficient drying room there so everything OK by morning. Meal in historic Bath hotel. Got voice mail from sister Jo for my birthday (53), and arranged to meet Richard H (old classmate from 1979) tomorrow.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 5
Wed 3 July
Rained all through the night. Conversation with older cyclist who kept asking if I knew this or that racer, and I didn't know any of them! No internet at Cheddar YH, but at warden's suggestion tried local library. Normally they do, and for free, but the system was down at the time. Tried libraries in Yatton & Clevedon, but closed all day Wed. Tried again at Chepstow, but closed 1630 Wed, and I got there 1715. (It seemed that the whole town closes at 1730)
Weather today started wet, but brightened about 0930 then turned into a very nice if windy day. Wind from wrong direction again (I was going West!) Spent a while in Cheddar Gorge tourist info booking tonight's B&B Decided to have a relatively easy day today (only 90km) but involving 2 major bridges - Avonmouth & Severn. Also booked Clun YH for Thur, so have about 96km to do then. Left Cheddar by 1100 - over the Malverns via Shipham, Congresbury, Clevedon. Lunch at big pub on the seafront at Clevedon, then off via Gordano valley, Avonmouth Bridge, NCN41 to old Severn Bridge (very windy) to Chepstow. While wheeling bike down 'Steep Street' in Chepstow, stupidly cut heel on front gearwheel. Too early to check in at B&B in Sedbury (which is a suburb of Chepstow, but is in England!) so killed an hour by river Wye at 'The Boat' having OJ & crisps and writing this. Booked in 18.45. Obviously very old house with historic connections. Internal doors had cracks you could see through! After a hot bath, met Richard Huws in Chepstow for Indian meal and chat about old times, and introduced him to the delights of mango lassi, my favourite non-alcoholic drink. Our first meeting since 1979.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 6
Thu 4 July
Breakfast 0730 then off up the Wye valley, which indeed is beautiful. Nice sunny day. Stopped at Tintern Abbey to have a look, and slop on the SPF30. A car driver told me I 'must have been doing 30 down that hill'. Discovered had lost my cycling gloves. At Monmouth, found a bike shop, but closed due to bereavement. Took main A466 from Monmouth - Hereford, which was surprisingly quiet. Could not say same about main road north of Hereford - glad to get off it. Snack lunch at Wormelow Tump, a very sleepy village with not too welcoming pub. Hereford traffic surprisingly heavy. Found another bike shop near the Cathedral, but closed, and another, also closed, off the inner ring road. Finally got a new pair of gloves in Halfords. However by the time I got to Leominster the blood supply to my fingers was being cut off - the gloves were too small. Luckily found an open bike shop in Leominster where I got a better & cheaper pair. Met a couple of end-to-end cyclists in this shop, heading for Ludlow. My destination was somewhat further! Mid afternoon snack in bistro-pub in Leominster pedestrianised area, but stuck to my rule of alcohol-free daytimes. Mainly quiet back roads to Clun, via Mortimer's Cross & Leintwardine. First flat of the trip 7 miles short of Clun, on a very narrow road with grass in the middle. Think I hit a big stone or a pothole, and pinched the tyre. No puncture as such, but 2 small splits in the inner. At Clunton I thought I was in Clun so asked in pub for directions to YH. Rather over-friendly customer insisted on giving me very detailed directions. Clun YH is an old mill on the edge of Clun village. Quite primitive, but very civilised too. Almost empty. No mobile phone reception. Warden playing classical music tapes and 3 old dears from Saltburn by the Sea were playing at being assistant wardens, showing me where the bike shed was etc. I half wondered if they were aged relatives of the warden. One seemed a bit wandered. Only one other male hosteller, a Kiwi walking Offa's Dyke.
Very good weather today - dry, sunny spells, but not too hot. But drizzling when I walked back from the pub.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 7
Fri 5 July
Self catering only at this hostel, so cadged a teabag & ate my own banana for breakfast. Decided to have a long day today, so booked ahead to Liverpool YH. Will get this free as I now have 4 hostel stamps. Off through the drizzle via Bishop's Castle (is that a chess move?) to Montgomery (never been there before, and just had to see it). Started damp and got wetter, then real Welsh rain, so put on overtrousers for first time. Despite the weather, was pleased to sea that my namesake town was quite a presentable little place with a strong civic society. Sadly no longer a county town, but still worth a visit with its castle, walls, Georgian buildings and lovely views (I was told). New (CTC listed) cafe in the old town hall, where I had tea & toasted teacakes, and a couple of cycle wheel shaped biscuits! After a few photos and reading a few plaques, decided to leave the steep climb up to Montgomery Castle for another day. On via Welshpool and Pant to Oswestry where I had to actually join the Shropshire County Library to use their internet (I still have the membership card!). Spent about an hour there reading & sending emails, and checking the weather forecast (not wonderful) then off again via Overton, Bangor-on-Dee, to Chester. On last stretch I overtook a kid on a mountain bike, but he stuck with me for miles all the way to Chester, eventually passing me, but never uttering a word. Finding a way out of Chester was difficult, as it is surrounded by motorways. Finally found a nice quiet route along the Wirral to Birkenhead, passing a multiplex cinema/ retail park/ fast food centre in the middle of nowhere. Arrived at Birkenhead too late for the ferry (it only runs as a tourist attraction these days), and no bikes allowed in the tunnels, so took train from Birkenhead Hamilton Square to Liverpool James Street - the shortest rail crossing possible. Bike nearly got stuck in a lift at James St. Arrived at hostel (next to the renovated Albert Docks area) at 2055. Hostel surrounded by 4m high fence with CCTV cameras and security entrance system! Stayed in room 101. Walked round the docks, where Van Morrison concert was in progress under a big tent. Somewhat insubstantial meal in Ibis Hotel.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 8
Sat 6 July
Out of Liverpool by Scotland Road, past Aintree and its famous Canal Turn, then followed nice little back roads to Ormskirk, for lunch. Later a fortuitous missed turn meant I came along a closed road and into the colourful annual church parade at Croston. An impatient 'white van driver' was trying to argue with the policeman at the end of the closure to let him through.
Stopped in Preston to book-a-bed-ahead at tourist info. While booking being made, had lunch in a cafe advertised as 'English by day, Chinese by night' had to settle for egg & bacon roll, as hot food stopped at 1430. I was quite impressed by the architecture of Preston town centre, especially the massive library towering over the main square.
Stopped in Garstang for (yes) pint of OJ & crisps. Garstang seems to be an example of traffic management gone wrong. The main street has been made one way and the traffic calmed to some extent, but not enough, so the cars all go through too fast. The result is probably even more dangerous than before the treatment as there are now no pavements (sidewalks) as such. Took Lancashire Coastal Path into Lancaster. Mostly this is very good old railway path, but pretty rough section in the middle. Dinner at Carnforth Hotel (very good value) then on to very comfortable B&B at farm in Warton, a couple of miles north.
Dry weather today - cloudy with sunny spells
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 9
Sun 7 July
Took coastal route via Silverdale & Arnside (Morecambe Bay) - very attractive. At Kendal a driver opened his door right in front of me. Luckily I was not too close, but gave him a shout to which he replied 'All right mate?' .... Via Burneside to old A6 Shap route. The gradual pull up to Shap summit was not too bad, and there was an exhilarating fast run down the other side, where I touched 60km/h. Had lunch in a pub in Shap village, and got a Scottish £5 note in change. I was already booked into Carlisle YH that night, but the sight of the note made me realise that Scotland wasn't far away, so when I got to Penrith, went to tourist info centre, had a quick look at my map, booked into B&B in Lockerbie and cancelled Carlisle YH. That meant the next day was 'only' 75 miles to Glasgow, so I could get there a day earlier than planned.
On to Carlisle, where once again I got lost trying to find the way out! To Gretna Green via Longtown rather than the direct route, so as to avoid the 'killer A74'. All the tourist tat at Gretna Green (eg the old blacksmith's shop where runaway couples from England used to get married) has closed down now (probably due to drop in tourism last year resulting from foot & mouth restrictions). The village now looks bereft. On to Kirkpatrick Fleming, where stopped for OJ & crisps. The 'Station Inn' here is just west of Quintinshill, site of the worst rail disaster in UK history in 1915. Lots of memorabilia on the walls including a trooper's rifle minus all the wooden parts (burnt away) and with the bore bent by the heat. Also the original signal box display panel, salvaged when the box closed down in the 60s.
On through Ecclefechan to Lockerbie, where an old gent showed me to my room & asked when I wanted breakfast. I said 0730 and that seemed OK, but on my way to the hotel for a meal later, I was pursued by a semi-hysterical woman shouting 'Cooeee Mr cyclist, Mr cyclist. Everyone else is having breakfast at 8, so you won't mind having it then too will you? No option really. Very good meal in nearby hotel (farthest south in Lockerbie) with big stone lions at the entrance. Bedroom not en-suite, but unusually each room had its own allocated bathroom.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 10
Mon 8 July
After a hearty breakfast, continued on old A74 for a while then took back road to Moffat - a delightful road, and Moffat still one of the few picturesque villages in Scotland (others being Drymen, Culross, Falkland, Kenmore, Tomintoul). Snack in Moffat near the Ram Statue, then checked out library, but closed. Back south a bit to A74 then up to Beattock Summit, which again was not as bad as feared. Through Crawford - a sad depressed village - then Abington which was similar, with the main hotel closed. This whole part of Scotland seems in the doldrums. After lunch at the motorway service station at Abington, followed Clyde Valley tourist route to Wiston, and in particular to Wiston Lodge YMCA where I spent a week during my first BSc degree at Paisley (1968-73), learning & practising geology (on Tinto Hill), surveying (I still recognised the very junction that we practised on) and hydrology.
Followed small road from Wiston over the hill west of Tinto to Douglas Water, then took signed cycle route towards Lanark. Nice route. Missed out Lanark itself, and went via Rosebank. Lots of garden centres here (used to be a prime tomato growing area) so had pot of tea & cake at one of them (garden centre that is, not tomato). On through Hamilton, past 3 mile long traffic queue trying to avoid motorway roadworks. Route from Hamilton to Rutherglen via Blantyre & Cambuslang was awful. What dreadfully depressing places. The sunshine just seems to make them look worse. This was my impression from the main road, so heaven knows what it must be like 'round the back'. In Rutherglen Main street I was 'mock threatened' by a group of kids and stupidly reacted to them, leading to a wobble that greatly amused them all. Finally through Cathcart to Muirend, where I was greeted by my sister (by now it was about 1830). Nice to relax with relatives for a while. Tomorrow is my nephew's 15th Birthday, so will take the day off with him (Schools already on holiday in Scotland). The father of my niece's best friend is mad keen on cycling and ferry boats, and has published two books on his travels by these means round the Hebrides. My sister promises to get me a copy of his latest book ('Full Cycle' by Stuart Craig.)
Tue 9 July
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 11
Wed 10 July
Left Muirend 0930, via Glasgow City Centre, Hope St, Possil Rd, to Milngavie, where got slightly lost trying to find back road to Carbeth. Familiar shape of Campsie Hills got me back on track, on to Drymen, where I got cut up by a car turning left in front of me into Drymen Golf Club. Nearest thing to an accident yet. Felt like following him in to the Clubhouse to have a word or two. Tea & scones in rather twee cafe/pottery with infuriatingly squeaky door to the kitchen. Followed NCN 7 via Garadbhan Forest to Aberfoyle, where had lunch in Basil's Cafe. Caught in heavy downpour shortly after leaving Aberfoyle - took shelter under some trees for a while, then back along puddled roads to Callander, then NCN 7 through wonderful scenery past Loch Lubnaig, Loch Voil and Loch Earn then along the old railway viaduct up Glen Ogle to Killin. Some of NCN 7 is very good, but some is awful, by which I mean it's not suitable for normal bikes - too steep, very tight bends, rough surface, bad joins between tarmac bits & other bits. Must write to Sustrans with my comments. Especially bad was rough broken section (with warning signs) south of Balquidder. Also 2 lots of steep zig-zags (one at S end of Glen Ogle path, just N of new bridge. I suspect this bridge has been built in the wrong place, on the old lower level rail line rather than the high level.) Also the track through the forest west of Killin consisted of 2 very narrow 4x4 wheel tracks between long grass. Consequently, as it was now raining again, I got soaked from below as well as above.
However Killin YH was very nice & friendly, and I had a good meal at nearby Lochay Hotel, then pleasant reminiscing with other hostellers about our experiences on the many nearby Munros.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 12
Thu 11 July
Left Killin YH early at 0810 - earliest time on the road so far. Bought sandwiches & bananas at Killin co-op & ate them by the road round south side of Loch Tay. This road was not as flat as hoped - very hilly in fact. Tea & scones in Kenmore, a very attractive village at the east end of the loch.
Aware of a clicking, crunching noise on the way to Kenmore, and once I ascertained it wasn't my knees, I discovered it was the left pedal. - I suspected loose bearings. Over the hill to Tummel Bridge, with great views of Schiehallion, then over another hill to Trinafour. Third big hill of the day took me north to the A9 at Dalnacardoch Lodge. As expected, the pass of Drumochter was easy compared to the earlier hills of the day. Sustrans NCN 7 parallel to the A9 was better than yesterday's effort, but still some sections could be better. Also all the cattle grids were barred for some reason, so I had to negotiate several gates with really strong springs.
By Newtonmore, that pedal noise was getting worse. Found a bike hire shop open in Kingussie, but no repairs done there - advised Bothy Bikes in Aviemore, or Slochd Bikes at Slochd. Got to Aviemore at 1710 , where Bothy Bikes confirmed the left pedal bearings were knackered. Left bike there to get new pedals fitted by 0915 tomorrow. Meanwhile put 3 films in for 1hr processing. Aviemore is a lively place now - lots of things open late as well as pubs. YH warden (sorry, manager) was nice enough but a bit of a misery, apt to warn folk not to go to various undesirable parts of Edinburgh. Dinner in Italian style restaurant at north end of town, accompanied by can of Tennents lager! Two internet cafes in Aviemore, but not open very late, so sent some emails from the YH.
Weather today was quite good. Short shower at Trinafour, otherwise cloudy but dry.
Last long day tomorrow - 80 miles to Carbisdale Castle YH, then 2 short days
and that's it. Planning to finish off in Orkney & get ferry back to
Aberdeen, as suggested by Andy B.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 13
Fri 12 July
Free coffee at Aviemore YH then off carrying my panniers to Bothy Bikes. On the way, enquired at Tourist Info re accommodation & ferries (Orkney to Aberdeen), but no help. Phoned & booked Bettyhill B&B (from the CTC guide). Next to rail station to check trains Aberdeen - Leeds. All 5 bike spaces were available on the day/train I want, so left it for now. To Bothy Bikes at 0945, where I found they had not yet started on the pedals! Had breakfast across the road while waiting. Finally got away 1040, the latest since Penzance.
Via Carrbridge, Slochd Summit, and the hill was not as bad as expected. At Tomatin, to reduce weight, posted back to myself most of the photos developed yesterday. Followed NCN 7 via Moy (a few houses) then more or less the rail route. Met a farmer & son & two dogs at Ballaggan. The farmer was complaining (in an accent that sounded almost Irish) that the wet weather was preventing him making hay. Stopped by the Clava Cairns near Culloden, and was interviewed on my way out by a lady from Historic Scotland. (How had I heard about the Cairns etc.) On via Balloch and quiet back roads route to Inverness Tesco. Lunch there then over the Kessock Bridge after negotiating the dreadful Longman roundabout on the Inverness side, and the equally dangerous (for bikes) priority junction on the Black Isle side. Nice ride along the Black Isle. Stopped at GMO protest camp at Munlochy, which has been visited by John Swinney MSP and Charles Kennedy MP. Was kindly offered free cup of tea & biscuit.
Fast run to Cromarty, arriving at ferry slip just after 1700 to find notice
declaring that ferry cancelled until further notice! My heart sank, and my mind
raced through alternative plans. I still had 50 km scheduled for today, but
that would now have to wait till tomorrow, so tomorrow would be 80 miles (130km)
instead of today. A local directed me to the Dolphin Centre for information
on the ferry. The woman there rather abruptly (it was closing time) gave me
the phone number of the ferryman, and a list of local accommodation. Spoke to
the ferryman's son, who explained that the boat had been out of action for a
week, but the required new
part had now been manufactured (!) and delivered and it was due to sail again
by lunchtime tomorrow. So no alternative but to stay the night in Cromarty.
Tried to book in to three B&Bs from the list I had been given, but nobody
was at home at any of them, so ended up at the Cromarty Inn. £20 ('That's
including breakfast, sir') for the 'family room' - not ensuite. The handbasin
tap was dripping into the basin and onto the carpet below. TV reception in the
bar was fine, but in my room it was dreadful, and the remote was not working.
Spent a while thinking what to do if the ferry was still not working by lunch tomorrow, as it is a long way to my booked accommodation at Bettyhill. A local suggested I could possibly persuade a fisherman to take me over. Anyway I cancelled Carbisdale Castle YH. I thought of staying at the Crask Inn or Altnaharra on Saturday so as to do Ben Klibreck, but both were full, so decided reluctantly to abandon the Klibreck plan and go directly to Bettyhill on Saturday. Probably just as well, as I don't have walking boots or even trainers with me, and my right heel is still a bit sore since I cut it on the front chain drive back in Chepstow. Tomorrow will therefore be about 81 miles (130km) so I will need a reasonably early start.
Cromarty is a sleepy little town, but I didn't sleep much, as Friday night was loud music night (till 1am) at the Cromarty Inn .
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 14
Sat 13 July
Breakfast 0830, the earliest this crummy establishment could manage. After breakfast, the ferry was not yet ready, but it was being frantically worked on and the ferryman promised it would be ready by 1030. To fill in the time, I went for a ride up the hill to the viewpoint on South Sutor (The Sutors are the two promontories guarding the entrance to the Cromarty Firth.) Seven oil platforms were visible in the firth, there for maintenance/repair.
True to the promise, the ferry set off on its first crossing at 1035, with me as the only passenger. Two French cyclists were waiting at the other side to come south. Flat flat flat to Tain, where I had tea & a scone. Fairly flat again to Bonar Bridge. I had planned to lunch at Invershin, but the hotel there was closed and up for sale, so I crossed the fairly new footbridge attached to the rail bridge over to Carbisdale Castle, getting stung by nettles on the way. Arrived at the YH 1330, and booked ahead the next 3 hostels (John o' Groats, Kirkwall and Stromness). Also sent some emails, and got free lunch courtesy of the hostellers 'free food' box and a lump of cheese from one of the 19 friendly staff at this enormous palatial hostel. Left YH at 1500, with still 50 miles to go. Lairg was as dead as ever, despite the start of its Gala week. Lairg always strikes me as a missed opportunity - it is in a stunning location, fronting on to a lovely loch, but it makes nothing of it.
Good progress on easy gradients up to the Crask Inn. Spoke to a German walker on the road on his way south to Lairg. I am a keen hillwalker, but I don't think I would enjoy walking on the roads round here - too flat & bleak. This area, known as the flow country, is basically an enormous bog with the odd mountain poking though like islands in a sea of peat. Some people find it beautiful.
Orange juice & crisps at Crask, where I met a family doing the End to End southwards by car as backup to the husband doing it by bike. They were aiming for 100 miles a day, and this was day one. Good luck to them!
Ben Klibreck looked very inviting from Crask, and eminently do-able, but I didn't have the time due to the ferry problem and the lack of accommodation hereabouts. My attempts to climb it have now been thwarted twice - the first time was last year when the road north from Lairg was blocked all day by a tour bus that crashed & caught fire. Hopefully third time will be lucky.
The journey from Crask to Bettyhill via Strathnaver was beautiful, but very long and seemingly endless, and I was getting a bit tired physically & mentally at the end. I don't know how I would have coped if it had been raining. This area was the scene of the worst excesses of the Highland Clearances (about 1815). According to my landlady in Bettyhill, the subject wasn't discussed in school until quite recently. Now there is a whole tourist trail in Strathnaver, with interpretation boards showing where the various atrocities occurred.
Dinner at Bettyhill Hotel, served by the granddaughter of Mrs McKenzie, my landlady for this evening. Bath & early bed.
Weather today was beautiful, and forecast to remain so for a few days.
Tour de Frank daily diary: day 15
Sun 14 July
A reasonably easy day of about 50 miles ahead. Mrs Mckenzie tells me the first 15 miles (in Sutherland) is hilly, then the rest (in Caithness) is flat. This proves to be very true. The north Sutherland coast is very rugged & bleak, and not much happening on a Sunday. Bought sandwiches at 'The Shop' in Reay, then took the NCN route via Shebster & Westfield to Thurso, where I found that I could book the P&O Orkney - Aberdeen ferry at the Tourist Info office. I also discovered that, because of improvement works ongoing at Stromness harbour, the ferry sails not from there but from Kirkwall. On the Tourist office's recommendation, had lunch at the Redwood, a strange restaurant-bar with a strong C&W flavour. The food was fine, but took ages in coming, and was served by a small boy who looked much older than his years. Not a lot to see in Thurso (ruined castle, promenade...) so onwards via Castlehill flagstone quarry area & the 'flagstone trail'. This area once supplied much of the UK with flagstones. Up here they are used for everything from buildings to pavements to field walls.
Near Greenland farm, I met another cyclist at the top of a small hill. I presumed he was doing the End to End the other way, but no, he was halfway through the North Sea Cycle Route, having already gone through Holland, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Shetland and Orkney. That put my little expedition into perspective!
Decided not to bother with Dunnet Head (most northerly point on the mainland) as I have been there before, and also I didn't visit the Lizard in Cornwall (the most southerly point). Brief stop at John o' Groats YH in Canisbay to dump my panniers, then off to John o' Groats itself, where I signed the book at the Last House, got my CTC record sheet stamped and my photo taken at the signpost. Phoned my sister, then off for the 2 miles extra to Duncansby Head, which is the real 'end'. But nothing there but a lighthouse and some impressive sea stacks. Met another cyclist there from NZ who had just done the End to End in a leisurely month. I was to bump into him again twice in Orkney. Good meal in CTC listed restaurant at the crossroads at John o' Groats, then back to the YH, where after registering, the warden not only stamped my record sheet but also gave me an SYHA End to End certificate! Sent SMS text messages to a couple of friends, and shortly after one of them phoned me back, sounding even more enthusiastic than I was!
The End
